IMBER . WILTS . ST GILES – Graffiti and Apotropaic Symbols

ST GILES . IMBER . WILTS

A lost village with a sad backstory. Once it was a remote small community in the centre of the vast acres of Salisbury Plain, with pretty cottages and a fine church. It was already a huge military training area before WW2 and the decision was made to evict the populace. As the record states: Given nowhere else to go, Imber’s villagers were ‘liberated’ of their homes in 1943, with just 47 days notice, to make way for American troops to train for the liberation of Europe during World War II. 

The displaced population believed – or were led to believe – that in due course they would be able to return to their homes and to normality, but they were not permitted to go back. The cottages were replaced by large buildings to create battle scenarios. Only the Church of St Giles was left alone. You can read more HERE

DIALS

For obvious reasons, access is permitted on only a few specific days of the year. I recently visited on an Open Day, not least because I had found a clear record of two scratch dials. There aren’t any. However there is a wonderful collection of church marks of all types. Much of the trove is in inaccessible parts of the church.

GRAFFITI AND APOTROPAIC SYMBOLS IN THE PORCH

In the time available I briefly examined the porch. Shown below is an illustrative selection (by an amateur) from a far wider choice; I hope to return the Church. Meanwhile here are the key references for further exposition.

Wiltshire Medieval Graffiti Survey – General

Wiltshire Medieval Graffiti Survey – St Giles

Imber Village – account of the village history

In a different light (2024) – a clear, authoritative new book by Tony Hack of WMGS with excellent photography and detailed overlays

ST GILES IMBER: THE PORCH

JOBOURG . NORMANDY . NOTRE DAME – Scratch Dial

NOTRE-DAME . JOBOURG . NORMANDY

A fine Romanesque church (C11 / 12) in the far NW of the Cotentin peninsular. From its elevated position in the coastal landscape, the sea can be seen on both sides. Of several good dials in the area (other posts will follow), this is the one that is closest to being a scratch dial, being cut directly into the gnomon stone. Other church dials in the region are vertical dials on, rather than cut into, their location.

DIAL

The dial is high up on the E buttress. Seen from the ground, the dial stone blends with the surrounding stones. Seen close to, the awkward setting – shaped angled top with filling around it – suggests relocation. Wherever originally positioned, the height of the dial on the buttress must have been an effective way to use the church’s prominent position to mark passage of the day for the local community.

The dial face has a layout similar to other dials in the area, 12 lines inside a double circle containing the numerals. A possible noon hole on the inner circle; possible noon line extending below it. The short pointed gnomon is a much later addition. LLQ is badly damaged. Beneath the angled top is an eroded inscription, the clearest letter being E. ‘RIEN’?

Finally, this photo from the excellent Michel Lalos french sundial site. I’m not sure when it was taken, but I expect within the last 20 years or so. It graphically shows how degraded and damaged the dial has come during a mere couple of decades. Sadly, LLQ is falling apart.

Cadran Solaire . Jobourg . Notre Dame (Michel Lalos)

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Sundial France; Vertical Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen except final, Michel Lalos

MARTOCK . SOMERSET . MARKET CROSS – Cube Dial

MARTOCK MARKET CROSS: ‘THE PINNACLE’

GRADE II ❖ Medieval base. 6-metre Column dated 1741. One sundial face also has that date. All but plinth block entirely rebuilt 1982. The fluted Tuscan column was perhaps copied from a similar one at Wilton. 8m NW of Yeovil. 50.970 / -2.7666 /  ST462192

DIAL

The images were taken starting from approx. NW, moving counter-clockwise. All four faces are included, some clearer than others. The various gnomon styles are shown. I have divided the photos into 2 blocks for simplicity. The dial is topped with a ball finial, which in turn supports an attractive weathervane.

As if this sundial were not enough, Martock’s very fine All Saints church has an excellent cube dial over the gateway: ALL SAINTS . MARTOCK . CUBE DIAL

MARTOCK HISTORY CLUB has a good article about the dial and other local features of interest.

GSS Category: Market Cross; Column Dial; Pinnacle Dial; Cube Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen

KNOOK . WILTS . ST MARGARET of ANTIOCH – Scratch Dial

ST MARGARET OF ANTIOCH . KNOOK . WILTS


GRADE I ❖. C11 – evidenced from 1078, probably on site of a wooden church. C14, C17, mid-C18 alterations / additions. Major restoration 1874-76 (Butterfield). One of several excellent and varied Wylye valley churches with dials (eg Stockton (18); Heytesbury; Chitterne; Sutton Veny).  Wonderful C11 / Saxon tympanum. 3m SE of Warminster. 51.1755 / 2.0908 / ST937418

DIAL

The dial is in a privileged position high on a quoin stone next to the tympanum. It is in fact the LRQ of a complete dial that must have been divided during restorations.This quarter includes the noon line.

TYMPANUM

The dial is LHS at tympanum height, just visible behind the elder

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Wiltshire Sundials

All photos: Keith Salvesen

COGOLIN . VAR . FRANCE – Vertical Dials

booking.com

L’ÉGLISE SAINT-SAUVEUR et SAINT ÉTIENNE . COGOLIN . VAR

COGOLIN is an attractive and relatively small town with a harbour close to Port Grimaud. Both towns are a short jet-ski ride from St Tropez. The church, with its double dedication, may date to C11.

This intriguing dial was created by M. Garde-Lebreton in 2018. It manages to combine accuracy, legibility, and charm. An excellent bonus is the very careful explanation of the dial on a separate plate. An object lesson of modern dial design and analysis.

DIAL 2

St-Sauveur has a second attractive dial, another good example of a modern dial that combines its purpose with cheerful style. Engraved and painted on cement.

Props: Michel Lalos

GSS Category: Vertical Dial; Dial on Church Wall; Modern Dial; France Sundial

CREDITS: Charly Salvesen with many thanks; R Collins; booking.com; Michel Lalos

OKEFORD FITZPAINE . DORSET . ST ANDREW – Scratch Dial (re-sited)

ST ANDREW . OKEFORD FITZPAINE . DORSET

LISTING: II* ❖ Records from 1302; mainly C15. ‘Extensive restoration’ 1865 (J Hicks). A fine church set in a large, sloping churchyard. 4m S of Sturminster Newton. 50.8965 /  –2.2753 / ST807108

DIAL

No need to pass through the Lych-gate to find it. 20 yards to the left on the outside of the wall, you will find the dial reset ‘with other architectural fragments, probably placed there during restoration of 1865‘ GLP.

The dial is a spidery creation (‘a six-pointed star formed of three intersecting lines’ GLP). It’s hard to imagine how, in its original position, it could have been very useful. Perhaps the rustic work of a sacristan in idle moments? Possibly it is not a dial at all.

UPPER STONE

LOWER STONE

The stone below (a different type?) has a half-circle, and a promising gnomon hole above left. Neither has other dial features.

SHOE OUTLINES

Without being unduly dismissive of the dial, the most interesting features of these stone fragments are the outlines of 2 small shoes – one incomplete, the other cut off by the edge of the stone. The iconography of medieval protection marks is a whole separate subject of study, outside my remit. In brief some recurring features found on or in buildings – both religious and secular – are defined as protection marks. Specific examples include outlines of hands (eg North Cadbury), feet, and shoes. Other counter-witchcraft methods involved items being walled up in dwellings. These include childrens’ shoes and toys; glass phials; bones; animal skulls; and dead cats. To explore further, the excellent book by Brian Hoggard ‘Magical House Protection’ should be your guide.

Of St Andrew’s 6 bells, one has an excellent inscription worth mentioning: I OFTEN HAVE BEEN BEATE AND BANGED MY FRIENDS REJOICE TO SEE ME HANGED AND WHEN MY FRIENDS DO CHANCE TO DIE THEN I FOR THEM WILL LOUDLY CRIE

Another fragment incorporated into the wall

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Re-sited Dial; Shoe protection mark

All photos: Keith Salvesen

BELCHALWELL . ST ALDHELM . Vertical Dial

ST ANDREW . BELCHALWELL . DORSET

Listed II* ❖ South door, part of S nave wall c.1190; C15 nave, south tower, porch, part of chancel; C18 works and restorations. A lonesome church in the heart of the Blackmore Vale. If unfamiliar with the area use a map or satnav. You’ll find a fascinating little church. 4m S of Sturminster Newton. 50.8873 / -2.2964 / ST792098

DIAL

A conventional dial, simple and a bit incongruous high up on the SW buttress of the tower. It is in fact a locally-made replica of a dial which had existed in the same position on the church since the late 18th or early 19th century (BSS). It is very slightly canted on the angled buttress, with the lines cut from VIII to VI. Including the horizontal line, this is (unusually?) a VII – VII dial.

Late Norman porch and Painted arch

GSS Category: Vertical Dial; Canted dial; Replaced old dial; Replica Vertical Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen

ILCHESTER . SOM . MARKET CROSS

GRADE II ❖. 1795. Market Cross on site of earlier cross. Ham stone. Circular base with two chamfered offsets, set on circular step; square stepped plinth carrying simple Doric column with entablature moulding over, then square-plan block with sundials having sheet metal gnomons, and a ball finial with wrought-iron wind vane. (VCH, Vol III, 1974).

DIAL M FOR MISFORTUNE

The VCH record of 1974 pre-dated 2 subsequent calamities. The original dial, erected in 1792 was significantly damaged in 1990 gales. A replacement with new column, dial, and gnomons was erected in 1991 (BSS). The original dial motto was indecipherable and was replaced by a new motto Tempus Orbis.

Then in 2017, a car drove directly into the monument, smashing the base and causing the whole edifice to collapse (see below). ST 52193 22723

This is a fine example of a Market Cross, one of 3 or 4 in the region (eg Martock). Tall, slender, and uncomplicated, the dial is pleasingly in proportion to the overall design. My camera didn’t deal with the height well enough to show the detail. Several angles of the dial and gnomons are shown, but not the markings on each face. However, there is a close-up view of one face of the dial below.

MONUMENTAL DAMAGE 2017

Early one August morning a car drove directly into the monument. The driver seems to have been unhurt, and was arrested for drunk driving (outcome unknown). The impact smashed the base and destabilised the entire structure. The images below show the dramatic aftermath. The monument was in due course rebuilt using parts of the original structure(s) where possible. It now, unsurprisingly, in excellent condition.

The restorers BODEN & WARD earned a prestigious award for this challenging project. The link will take you to their records; the photos of some of the reconstruction work are fascinating.

TEMPUS ORBIS

A simple-seeming motto that is hard to translate. Not mentioned by Gatty. The literal ‘Time (of the) World’ doesn’t really work. Perhaps ‘the Circle of Time’, given that the quotidian day lights each face as the world orbits the sun.

GSS Category: Cube Dial; Market Cross; Market Cross Sundial; Pillar Sundial

Image Credit: Keith Salvesen; BBC / Christopher Brown; Somerset Live; Bowden & Ward

TIMSBURY. HANTS . ST ANDREW – Scratch Dial & Church Marks

ST ANDREW . TIMSBURY . HANTS

GRADE II* ✣ C13; C15 chancel rebuilt; C16 porch, bell-cote; later restorations esp 1847. A fascinating small church with plenty to offer the visitor besides the look of it including: medieval protection marks and graffiti; remains of wall paintings; tiles; good pew ends; an intriguing porch; a nice memorial horizontal dial in the churchyard; and the grave of Noel Thelwell (beloved pony cartoonist) and his wife. The church information sheets are models of their kind. 3m N of Romsey; 8m S of Stockbridge. 51.0193 / -1.5084 / SU345245

Horizontal Dial in Churchyard HERE

DIAL

The dial was recorded in April 1922 by ARG, the originator of scratch dial research in Hampshire. He, like pioneer Somerset dial researcher DEH 10 years earlier, was equipped with a camera.

ARG noted 4 definite lines of equal length, perhaps more under the lichen. Located on SE quoin stone of the chancel, facing due S. Style hole about 4 ft high, in mortar line (thus forming the horizontal / 6-to-6 line).

There were several later descriptions of this dial. The last official BSS record (photo below) was made in 1994.

DIAL IN JANUARY 2024

The condition of the dial may have deteriorated from weathering, however the apparent repair work since 1994 may be the reason why the lines are now so indistinct.

GRAFFITI and PROTECTION MARKS

FUTHER READING

HAMPSHIRE FIELD CLUB & ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY HERE

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Church Graffiti; Protection Mark; Marian Mark

All photos: Keith Salvesen

BROCKENHURST . HANTS . ST NICHOLAS – Scratch Dial

ST NICHOLAS . BROCKENHURST . HANTS

GRADE II* ❖ C12; chancel, porch late C13; enlargements; late C19 / early C20 restorations. Excellent late Norman south door. C12 font. The oldest church in the New Forest. The village and church have great military significance. WW1: a Military Hospital for severe casualties of non-British soldiers. WW2: Divisional HQ for planning D-Day. Large churchyard, commemorative graves, and a fine memorial. The church contains a moving exhibition of the wartime history. Queen Mary visited and seeing that Sikhs were lacking turbans, supplied them; and seeing broom handles being used as crutches, supplied walking sticks. 50.8146 / -1.5681 / SU305017

DIAL

The dial is on E jamb of S Porch, late C13. The right side is concealed by render of some sort. Despite erosion, it is possible to make out 8 lines. Iron gnomon remnant protruding.

ARG visited in June 1924. He detected part of an indistinct circle, but 100 years later there is no trace. He noted that the style-hole retains its metal gnomon, broken off and projecting very slightly. The original? It is rare enough to find remnants of metal in a gnomon hole, let alone (if ever) to be able to identify one as pre-1600.

Amusingly innovative metal gnomon. Clungungford . Salop

A special gravestone

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Dial with gnomon remnant

All photos: Keith Salvesen