IMBER . WILTS . ST GILES – Graffiti and Apotropaic Symbols

ST GILES . IMBER . WILTS

A lost village with a sad backstory. Once it was a remote small community in the centre of the vast acres of Salisbury Plain, with pretty cottages and a fine church. It was already a huge military training area before WW2 and the decision was made to evict the populace. As the record states: Given nowhere else to go, Imber’s villagers were ‘liberated’ of their homes in 1943, with just 47 days notice, to make way for American troops to train for the liberation of Europe during World War II. 

The displaced population believed – or were led to believe – that in due course they would be able to return to their homes and to normality, but they were not permitted to go back. The cottages were replaced by large buildings to create battle scenarios. Only the Church of St Giles was left alone. You can read more HERE

DIALS

For obvious reasons, access is permitted on only a few specific days of the year. I recently visited on an Open Day, not least because I had found a clear record of two scratch dials. There aren’t any. However there is a wonderful collection of church marks of all types. Much of the trove is in inaccessible parts of the church.

GRAFFITI AND APOTROPAIC SYMBOLS IN THE PORCH

In the time available I briefly examined the porch. Shown below is an illustrative selection (by an amateur) from a far wider choice; I hope to return the Church. Meanwhile here are the key references for further exposition.

Wiltshire Medieval Graffiti Survey – General

Wiltshire Medieval Graffiti Survey – St Giles

Imber Village – account of the village history

In a different light (2024) – a clear, authoritative new book by Tony Hack of WMGS with excellent photography and detailed overlays

ST GILES IMBER: THE PORCH

MARTOCK . SOMERSET . MARKET CROSS – Cube Dial

MARTOCK MARKET CROSS: ‘THE PINNACLE’

GRADE II ❖ Medieval base. 6-metre Column dated 1741. One sundial face also has that date. All but plinth block entirely rebuilt 1982. The fluted Tuscan column was perhaps copied from a similar one at Wilton. 8m NW of Yeovil. 50.970 / -2.7666 /  ST462192

DIAL

The images were taken starting from approx. NW, moving counter-clockwise. All four faces are included, some clearer than others. The various gnomon styles are shown. I have divided the photos into 2 blocks for simplicity. The dial is topped with a ball finial, which in turn supports an attractive weathervane.

As if this sundial were not enough, Martock’s very fine All Saints church has an excellent cube dial over the gateway: ALL SAINTS . MARTOCK . CUBE DIAL

MARTOCK HISTORY CLUB has a good article about the dial and other local features of interest.

GSS Category: Market Cross; Column Dial; Pinnacle Dial; Cube Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen

KNOOK . WILTS . ST MARGARET of ANTIOCH – Scratch Dial

ST MARGARET OF ANTIOCH . KNOOK . WILTS


GRADE I ❖. C11 – evidenced from 1078, probably on site of a wooden church. C14, C17, mid-C18 alterations / additions. Major restoration 1874-76 (Butterfield). One of several excellent and varied Wylye valley churches with dials (eg Stockton (18); Heytesbury; Chitterne; Sutton Veny).  Wonderful C11 / Saxon tympanum. 3m SE of Warminster. 51.1755 / 2.0908 / ST937418

DIAL

The dial is in a privileged position high on a quoin stone next to the tympanum. It is in fact the LRQ of a complete dial that must have been divided during restorations.This quarter includes the noon line.

TYMPANUM

The dial is LHS at tympanum height, just visible behind the elder

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Wiltshire Sundials

All photos: Keith Salvesen

OKEFORD FITZPAINE . DORSET . ST ANDREW – Scratch Dial (re-sited)

ST ANDREW . OKEFORD FITZPAINE . DORSET

LISTING: II* ❖ Records from 1302; mainly C15. ‘Extensive restoration’ 1865 (J Hicks). A fine church set in a large, sloping churchyard. 4m S of Sturminster Newton. 50.8965 /  –2.2753 / ST807108

DIAL

No need to pass through the Lych-gate to find it. 20 yards to the left on the outside of the wall, you will find the dial reset ‘with other architectural fragments, probably placed there during restoration of 1865‘ GLP.

The dial is a spidery creation (‘a six-pointed star formed of three intersecting lines’ GLP). It’s hard to imagine how, in its original position, it could have been very useful. Perhaps the rustic work of a sacristan in idle moments? Possibly it is not a dial at all.

UPPER STONE

LOWER STONE

The stone below (a different type?) has a half-circle, and a promising gnomon hole above left. Neither has other dial features.

SHOE OUTLINES

Without being unduly dismissive of the dial, the most interesting features of these stone fragments are the outlines of 2 small shoes – one incomplete, the other cut off by the edge of the stone. The iconography of medieval protection marks is a whole separate subject of study, outside my remit. In brief some recurring features found on or in buildings – both religious and secular – are defined as protection marks. Specific examples include outlines of hands (eg North Cadbury), feet, and shoes. Other counter-witchcraft methods involved items being walled up in dwellings. These include childrens’ shoes and toys; glass phials; bones; animal skulls; and dead cats. To explore further, the excellent book by Brian Hoggard ‘Magical House Protection’ should be your guide.

Of St Andrew’s 6 bells, one has an excellent inscription worth mentioning: I OFTEN HAVE BEEN BEATE AND BANGED MY FRIENDS REJOICE TO SEE ME HANGED AND WHEN MY FRIENDS DO CHANCE TO DIE THEN I FOR THEM WILL LOUDLY CRIE

Another fragment incorporated into the wall

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Re-sited Dial; Shoe protection mark

All photos: Keith Salvesen

BELCHALWELL . ST ALDHELM . Vertical Dial

ST ANDREW . BELCHALWELL . DORSET

Listed II* ❖ South door, part of S nave wall c.1190; C15 nave, south tower, porch, part of chancel; C18 works and restorations. A lonesome church in the heart of the Blackmore Vale. If unfamiliar with the area use a map or satnav. You’ll find a fascinating little church. 4m S of Sturminster Newton. 50.8873 / -2.2964 / ST792098

DIAL

A conventional dial, simple and a bit incongruous high up on the SW buttress of the tower. It is in fact a locally-made replica of a dial which had existed in the same position on the church since the late 18th or early 19th century (BSS). It is very slightly canted on the angled buttress, with the lines cut from VIII to VI. Including the horizontal line, this is (unusually?) a VII – VII dial.

Late Norman porch and Painted arch

GSS Category: Vertical Dial; Canted dial; Replaced old dial; Replica Vertical Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen

ILCHESTER . SOM . MARKET CROSS

GRADE II ❖. 1795. Market Cross on site of earlier cross. Ham stone. Circular base with two chamfered offsets, set on circular step; square stepped plinth carrying simple Doric column with entablature moulding over, then square-plan block with sundials having sheet metal gnomons, and a ball finial with wrought-iron wind vane. (VCH, Vol III, 1974).

DIAL M FOR MISFORTUNE

The VCH record of 1974 pre-dated 2 subsequent calamities. The original dial, erected in 1792 was significantly damaged in 1990 gales. A replacement with new column, dial, and gnomons was erected in 1991 (BSS). The original dial motto was indecipherable and was replaced by a new motto Tempus Orbis.

Then in 2017, a car drove directly into the monument, smashing the base and causing the whole edifice to collapse (see below). ST 52193 22723

This is a fine example of a Market Cross, one of 3 or 4 in the region (eg Martock). Tall, slender, and uncomplicated, the dial is pleasingly in proportion to the overall design. My camera didn’t deal with the height well enough to show the detail. Several angles of the dial and gnomons are shown, but not the markings on each face. However, there is a close-up view of one face of the dial below.

MONUMENTAL DAMAGE 2017

Early one August morning a car drove directly into the monument. The driver seems to have been unhurt, and was arrested for drunk driving (outcome unknown). The impact smashed the base and destabilised the entire structure. The images below show the dramatic aftermath. The monument was in due course rebuilt using parts of the original structure(s) where possible. It now, unsurprisingly, in excellent condition.

The restorers BODEN & WARD earned a prestigious award for this challenging project. The link will take you to their records; the photos of some of the reconstruction work are fascinating.

TEMPUS ORBIS

A simple-seeming motto that is hard to translate. Not mentioned by Gatty. The literal ‘Time (of the) World’ doesn’t really work. Perhaps ‘the Circle of Time’, given that the quotidian day lights each face as the world orbits the sun.

GSS Category: Cube Dial; Market Cross; Market Cross Sundial; Pillar Sundial

Image Credit: Keith Salvesen; BBC / Christopher Brown; Somerset Live; Bowden & Ward

BROCKENHURST . HANTS . ST NICHOLAS – Scratch Dial

ST NICHOLAS . BROCKENHURST . HANTS

GRADE II* ❖ C12; chancel, porch late C13; enlargements; late C19 / early C20 restorations. Excellent late Norman south door. C12 font. The oldest church in the New Forest. The village and church have great military significance. WW1: a Military Hospital for severe casualties of non-British soldiers. WW2: Divisional HQ for planning D-Day. Large churchyard, commemorative graves, and a fine memorial. The church contains a moving exhibition of the wartime history. Queen Mary visited and seeing that Sikhs were lacking turbans, supplied them; and seeing broom handles being used as crutches, supplied walking sticks. 50.8146 / -1.5681 / SU305017

DIAL

The dial is on E jamb of S Porch, late C13. The right side is concealed by render of some sort. Despite erosion, it is possible to make out 8 lines. Iron gnomon remnant protruding.

ARG visited in June 1924. He detected part of an indistinct circle, but 100 years later there is no trace. He noted that the style-hole retains its metal gnomon, broken off and projecting very slightly. The original? It is rare enough to find remnants of metal in a gnomon hole, let alone (if ever) to be able to identify one as pre-1600.

Amusingly innovative metal gnomon. Clungungford . Salop

A special gravestone

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Dial with gnomon remnant

All photos: Keith Salvesen

CANFORD MAGNA . DORSET . Vertical Dial

CANFORD MAGNA CHURCH . DORSET

VERTICAL DIAL

For the Canford Scratch Dial see HERE

GRADE I ❖ Saxon origins as cruciform chapel. Tower added c1180. Expansion C13, C14; C15 additions; C19 alterations. No dedication. A very fine and interesting church, the late Saxon work being of major importance HE. Without any doubt one of the most interesting churches in Dorset PEV. 50.7889 /  -1.956 / SZ031988

DIAL

A fine dial above the S chapel in fair condition, rather attractively decorated with lichen. The dial is canted to face S, and shows the hours and half-hours from 6am to 6pm in Roman numerals. There seems to be no record of its date, but I will try to find out.

Although this is a Parish Church, it lies within the grounds of Canford School. There are some unsurprising visiting restrictions. If you have an interest in early churches, you will want to spend some time investigating the interior and working out the gradual development. See PEV DORSET p171 and ff.

GSS Category: Vertical Dial; Vertical Dial on Church

All photos: Keith Salvesen

HAMPRESTON . DORSET . ALL SAINTS – Scratch Dial

ALL SAINTS . HAMPRESTON . DORSET

GRADE II* ❖ Norman origins on Saxon site; 1261 first Rector; C14 chancel and Tower. Victorian additions and restoration. Royal Coat of Arms of George II 1754. DHCT rates as fabulously interesting. Secluded within the New Forest. 50.7888 / -1.9231 /  SZ055988

DIALS

All Saints has two adjacent dials low down on the same stone of a small buttress at the E end. One is elaborate; the other is rustic.

DIAL 1

There are 17 lines and 7 pocks within an incomplete circle. Noon seems to be indicated by 3 pocks under a shorter line. The longer line no doubt indicates the main time of observance as None.

DIAL 2

This simple dial has 2 sets of 3 pocks. The lower set would work for mid-morning to early afternoon, presumably to emphasise the main daily Mass. The upper set can only be ‘decorative’, perhaps the work of a bored sacristan practising symmetry.

GSS Category: Scratch Dial; Mass Dial; Medieval Sundial

All photos: Keith Salvesen

MILBORNE PORT . SOMERSET . Vertical Dial on chimney . 1691

MILBORNE PORT . SOMERSET

VERTICAL DIAL

The 1691 vertical dial on the Old Post Office in the centre of the village is in an unusual position, on the south-facing side of a tall chimney. It is repositioned, and predates the later prosperity and significance of Milborne Port in C18. At one time there were several local industries. There was even a large ‘ball court’ (for a form of Fives) that still exists as a ruin; and a polo ground. The small size and the height of the dial renders it unsatisfactory for marking the passage of the day. The theory that it was moved during the expansion of the main part of the village and retained as part of the community’s history may be the most plausible explanation for its present position.

BSS record: Eroded. Markings extremely hard to make out. Hourly markings. Arabic numerals. Presumed to show 6am to 6pm. Open triangular gnomon.

As noted above, Milborne Port was once an important and prosperous village, benefiting from the London road. I have added a link below for anyone who wants to get an idea of its former significance. The village of today, while retaining much evidence of its past, seems no longer the thriving community of former times.

MILBORNE PORT BHO

GSS Category: Vertical Dial; Early Vertical Sundial; Dated Dial

All photos: Keith Salvesen